Showing posts with label Old Westminster Winery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Old Westminster Winery. Show all posts

Thursday, May 7, 2026

The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage: Virginia and Maryland’s Grape Losses

The Mid‑Atlantic wine industry is no stranger to weather drama, but the April 21st 2026 freeze and radiational frost carved its own chapter into regional history.  After an unseasonably warm March pushed vines into early budbreak, a sudden plunge into the low 20s°F delivered a blow that many growers describe as the most severe in decades. This was a hard freeze - not simply frost - and even the most orchestrated mitigation efforts had no affect. Other wineries experienced radiational frost where the heavier cold air flowed to the lower lying vineyard plots, pushing up the warmer air. What followed was not just a crop loss -- it was a structural shock to both Maryland and Virginia, whose wine economies have matured into nationally recognized industries.

Frost mitigation in vineyards and orchards centers on one goal: keeping developing buds and blossoms above the critical temperature at which tissues are damaged. Growers typically combine site selection, canopy management, and active frost‑control tools to reduce risk. Cold air drainage is foundational -- orchards and vineyards are often planted on slopes or elevated benches so dense, freezing air can flow away rather than pool around vines or trees. Within the block, growers maintain open alleyways and avoid windbreaks that trap cold air. These passive strategies don’t eliminate frost risk, but they significantly reduce the frequency and severity of damaging events.

When temperatures drop toward freezing, growers turn to active interventions. Wind machines or helicopters -- for businesses with deeper pockets -- mix warmer air from the inversion layer with colder surface air, often raising temperatures by 2–4°F across several acres. Potassium-based sprays add a useful physiological buffer to the broader frost‑mitigation toolkit used in vineyards and orchards. When applied ahead of a cold event, potassium strengthens cell membranes, improves osmotic balance, and supports carbohydrate movement -- factors that help buds tolerate slightly lower temperatures before injury occurs. Overhead irrigation is another widely used method: as water freezes around buds, it releases latent heat, keeping tissues at 32°F even when ambient temperatures fall lower. Some regions rely on heaters or strategically placed burn barrels or wood piles to raise temperatures. 

Yet, on April 21st, when the freeze arrived, most vineyards were past the point where wind machines, fires, or helicopter downdrafts could meaningfully help. Growers across the region described the same morning scene: blackened shoots, collapsed leaves, and the unmistakable smell of frost‑burned vegetation. In Maryland, the damage spread from the western shore of the Chesapeake to the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the most severe cases found in the Catoctin Valley along the Route 15 corridor. Many wineries reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.  For instance, Black Ankle Vineyards - a very respected producer - lost their entire 2026 crop.

In Virginia, the damage was widespread, most notably, from the Loudoun Valley, the Shenandoah Valley, and throughout the Monticello AVA. In that historic American Viticultural Area, wineries also reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.   Apple and pear orchards in the Shenandoah Valley were particularly hit hard because an earlier April frost had damaged many primary buds and the April 21st event killed off the secondary shoots. 

Secondary buds sit beside the primary bud within the compound bud. When the primary bud is damaged, the secondary bud typically survives and can push a new shoot in spring. This replacement shoot is vital. First, it restores canopy growth, allowing the vine to photosynthesize and rebuild carbohydrate reserves. Second, it often produces fruit, though usually fewer clusters than a primary bud would have. In short, they act as the vine’s built‑in backup system, ensuring both fruiting potential and the maintenance of vegetative growth needed for long‑term vine health.

In theory, vines planted on higher plots are safer from the radiational frost since the heavier cold air flows to the lower areas.  And, in theory, early budding grape varieties like Pinot Gris would be more susceptible to frost damage.  And Virginia's Three Fox Vineyards lost most of these plantings. In Maryland, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard owner Adam Fizyta reported they lost 100% of their Albariño - an early to mid budding variety.  And in an informative blog post, the The Vineyards at Dodon detailed that in their region just west of the Chesapeake Bay, "Only the vineyards along the Chesapeake and at 6-800 feet above a valley floor survived unscathed..."

However, these expectations were not uniformly felt. Melissa Aellen, winemaker at Maryland's Linganore Winecellarsinformed us that a plot of Petit Verdot (which traditionally buds early) that was planted at a higher elevation survived mostly intact and will account for some of the 10% of estate vines that survived. Similarly, but in contrast, Keith Morris, the General Manager at Big Cork Vineyards reported that about 80% of their Petit Verdot survived, but these vines were planted at the winery's lowest plots. 

Another example showing the unpredictability of the damage occurred in Lindon, Virginia -- located just east of Front Royal. Over several Facebook posts, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards reported that for the first time the famous Hardscrabble Vineyard was hit by frost with a possible 20–30% crop loss, unusually high for a vineyard known for its frost resilience. However just across Route 66 to the North, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Fox Meadow Winery - a trio of vineyards surrounding St. Dominic's Monastery - fared with only minimal damage.  Yet, on the western edge of Front Royal, Reitano Vineyards lost their entire 2026 crop.

Courtesy of the Virginia Farm Bureau
In those Facebook posts, Jim Law also summarized what growers in the Mid-Atlantic are experiencing. "Finally as to the lower parcels that were completely frosted, we are just hoping they can be back in production for 2027. These poor vines have already experienced two years of sap sucking Spotted Lanternflies, two drought years, and a severe winter. Initial growth is generated by stored carbohydrates from the previous growing season. This spring those frosted shoots had already used up a lot of their reserves, so we worry about how much more is now available."

The Maryland Department of Agriculture called the freeze "one of the most significant crop losses in recent memory." The Virginia Wineries Association characterized the event as one of the most significant frost episodes in 15–20 years. But, economically, what does it mean? Particularly since wineries in Virginia and particularly in Maryland were already working off a 40-50% reduction in yields from 2025 because of several weather and pest events. 

In a lengthy blog post titled 2026, the Lost Vintage, Drew Baker of Burnt Hill Farm and Old Westminster Winery states that both wineries suffered a 100% loss in primary buds equating to a loss of 100 tons of fruit. On average, one ton of grapes yields about sixty cases of finished wine, or 720 bottles; thus 100 tons of lost fruit translates to roughly 72,000 bottles of wine never actualized. Drew also reminds us that, "The fruit may be gone, but the expenses are not. Payroll remains. Equipment costs remain. Repairs remain. Farming inputs remain. We still have a full time team farming these vines. We still have to mow, tuck shoots, manage canopy, monitor disease pressure, train trunks, control weeds, maintain trellis, and make careful decisions block by block."

In addition, the uneven ripening of any remaining primary and secondary shoots will add more to labor costs; this event created even more vineyard maintenance.  As Jim Law states, "With strategic and meticulous thinning some will have a full crop and others a partial crop. However there could be a lack of uniformity. Vines should have even separation between shoots and clusters so each receives the same amount of sun and air flow within the canopy. But in the 'partially frosted' vines we will have clumps of fruitful shoots, crowding some areas and at the same time gaps along the trellis where nothing is growing. Eventually new shoots will emerge with clusters that will be weeks behind. This would lead to uneven ripening and poor wine quality (what we refer to as an 'underripe/overripe' profile). We need to remove the clusters by hand before color change in August while we can still see a distinct difference. By harvest time they would all look the same, but taste very different." And this could delay harvest waiting for these clusters to ripen. Keith Morris conjectured that he wouldn't be surprised to see harvest last into mid-late November for many growers. 

What are producers doing next? Most Maryland farm wineries operate under a Class 4 Limited Winery license where they must either have planted 20 acres of estate vines or "at least 51 percent of the ingredients used in the annual production of the license holder’s wine are Maryland-grown agricultural products".  According to a spokesperson for the Maryland Department of Agriculture, the state has not yet issued a uniform exemption to this regulation, but impacted wineries can can apply for individual exemptions.  The situation is very similar in the Commonwealth. The Virginia ABC requires "Farm Wineries" to grow or lease a specified percentage of the fruit used in the production of their wines -- usually 51%. Wineries can apply for a Fruit Loss Exemption Waiver with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and purchase outside fruit.

Wineries are scrambling to source fruit from other regions. Big Cork Vineyards was able to sign contracts with several Maryland growers on the Eastern Shore that were not overly impacted by the April 21st event.  Several wineries mentioned that they are pivoting to New York - specifically the Niagara Escarpment and Finger Lakes. The Texas Hill Country is another option wineries are exploring, particularly for those wanting to replace lost Tempranillo, Tannat, Viognier, and Syrah.  Washington state and Lodi are other available options. 

The event has also showcases the collaborative nature of the industry. Yes, in one sense these wineries are competitors, but they also see each other as family and will be assisting each other to survive. For instance, expect wineries to band together when sourcing outside fruit in order to generate economies of scale. They will then contract this fruit or juice to smaller wineries at the discounted price - a price small wineries would never be able to receive on their own.  

What should consumers expect?  Smaller 2026 releases. Lots of library wines. Expect wineries to present more vertical tastings. Expect wines labelled American and not estate or AVA specific. But mostly, expect a plunge in the supply of local wine. Even before this event, Big Cork Vineyards had much less red wine in barrel due to the smaller 2025 yields. The same is probably true for other Maryland and Virginia wineries.  Consumers can help these wineries remain afloat by visiting or targeting local wines. We didn't list all the wineries that suffered damage, but we recommend treating each as if they lost everything. Visit WineCompass.com to plan a trip to wine county. 

Monday, December 15, 2025

Regenerative Farming at Burnt Hill Farm

We are continuing our focus on regenerative farming, this time through the lens of Drew Baker and Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm.  You can review the tenants of this framework at Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?.  The Baker family has always been interested in more sustainable farming and winemaking practices since they planted their first vines and opened Old Westminster Winery back in 2011.  Five years later, the Bakers partnered with geologist Ernest "Bubba" Beasley to search for the "perfect" hillside to plant a new vineyard. A year later they purchased an 117-acre site that Beasley determined ".. has the potential to grow extraordinary wines". 

This property contains steep slopes and rocky, well-drained soils (composed of phyllite and schist, layered with veins of quartzite). These soils are naturally low in potassium, a mineral that, in excess, can dull a wine’s acidity. Thus these shallow, skeletal soils had the potential for creating fresh, vibrant, and ageable wines. They then spent two years amending the soil by integrating cover crops and biodynamic practices to enhance the soil quality before planting old-world varieties alongside native and hybrid vines in 2019.  

Today, "Burnt Hill is a complex system of interacting forces — soil, plants, animals, fungi, and people — all working together in delicate balance".   In addition to the grapevines, they raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard — "always with reverence for the relationships between the land and all things who call it home".  The sheep and hogs are alternatives to mowing and assist in pest control and the bees help pollinate the cover crops - which in turn - are layers of armor protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.  And they repurpose as much as possible. When ash trees on the farm succumbed to the invasive emerald ash borer, they were immediately harvested and made into foeders used to ferment and age the wine. Minerals from the property were also collected and made into plates that are now used in the tasting room. 

Burnt Hill is comprised of an assortment of grapevines such as as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Syrah, Merlot, Tannat, Valvin Muscat, plus the unique hybrid Regent.  These wines made from these grapes are available through both the Estate wine series and collaboration wines with Old Westminster. And they are only available by participating in a Burnt Hill Farm Experience. And this is a fantastic experience. By reserving a tasting, participants are able to sample a plethora of wines paired with dishes prepared by Chef-partner Tae Strain. These dishes include ingredients from the Burnt Hill orchard, gardens, grains, mushrooms, and animals. A treat indeed. Here's a sampling of wines to expect.

Blanc de Blancs ($66)
This method champenoise sparkling wine is a collaboration between Old Westminster and Burnt Hill featuring chardonnay grapes grown at Cool Ridge Vineyard. Eventually the wine will be made from Burnt Hill north block estate Chardonnay. In the meanwhile, this is a fantastic expression of sparkling chardonnay - weighty, creamy, nutty, and with a cyclone of green apples. 

Earthsong 2021 ($88)
A 93%-7% Pinot Noir - Cabernet Franc blend where the Pinot was fermented in the ash wood foeders. Elegant and rustic old world charm. 

2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 ($105)
See Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm.

Terrafirma 2021 ($88)
Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot (54%) , Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Tannat (5%) also fermented in the ash wood foeders (except that the Cabernet Franc was fermented in concrete). This wine is no where near its full potential. Racy acidity and lively dark fruit with plenty of earthy and herbaceous notes. 

Gamay Barrel Selection 2021 ($132)
The grapes for this wine were harvested from the estate's north block and fermented in the same ash wood foeders. Loads of juicy minerality and general brightness. Unveiling the site's potential.  

Nectar Vin Blanc Doux ($47)
This wine combines the Old Westminster Winery estate Chardonnay with honey made from the Burnt Hill bee collective.  An extremely approachable wine - think honey and pears. 

Monday, November 24, 2025

Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm

The Regent Diamond is a 140.64-carat (28.128 g) diamond, classified as D color with a slight bluish tinge, cut into a cushion brilliant shape and internally flawless, making it one of the most historically significant and valuable diamonds in the world.  Discovered in India and cut in London, the diamond has adorned numerous French royal regalia - plus Napoleon - throughout history. Today it is hopefully secure at the Louvre and estimated to be worth US$60,000,000.  

With this background in mind, grape breeders at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding in Germany named a new hybrid after the diamond - the Regent grape. Big expectations. The grape was bred in 1967 by Professor Gerhardt Alleweldt with the intent to create a high-quality grape that could survive in cold climates.  He eventually crossed Diana (Silvaner × Müller-Thurgau) and Chambourcin - thus blending European vitus vinifera and French-hybrid genetics. After years of experimental plantings, the grape was officially released in 1996.

In general, Regent produces solid yields and is highly resistant to mildew diseases; the variety also has thick dark skins and an abundance of tannins. Chambourcin provides the resistance component whereas the Diana adds vinifera class. Unusually, Regent's flesh is stained red – a condition known as teinturier, and another indication that it is genetically geared toward producing powerful reds.

Regent has become a symbol of sustainable viticulture, reducing reliance on chemical sprays thanks to its natural resistance. This is what attracted Drew Baker, co-founder of Burnt Hill Farm, to organically farm grape on the their estate.  This fits into the regenerative farming philosophy espoused by Baker which we will highlight in more detail in a future post. In the meanwhile take a stroll through Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss? which includes a video of Burnt Hill Farm. In general, they treat the farm as its own ecosystem and raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard. They even harvested dying ash trees to create foeders to ferment and age their wine.

The 2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 spent three years in one of these foeders before being bottled and released as a single barrel selection. Drew is very enthusiastic about this release and the future of Regent at Burnt Hill Farm.  This medium-full bodied wine reminded me of a partnership between Petite Sirah and Chambourcin.  It appeared to have dark red fruit, more black pepper than spice, and more tannic structure than a typical Chambourcin. Plus an abundant supply of aromatics. Looks very promising. 

Thursday, February 18, 2021

A Trio of Wine for Old Westminster's 2021 Festival of Saint Vincent

"Each January in Burgundy, France, locals celebrate the Festival of Saint Vincent, the patron saint of winegrowers. The celebration takes place in a different winegrowing village each year. Saint Vincent celebrations attract tens of thousands of people over the weekend. Visitors pay to tour the village where local winegrowers have opened their cellars for wine tasting, and join in the fun. In the town square, the houses are decorated with paper mache flowers and many of the locals dress up in costumes from eras past. It's quirky. And beautiful. Winemakers pour special bottles of wine and offer samples of future vintages straight from the barrel."  Old Westminster Winery

 

For 2021, Old Westminster Winery moved their annual Festival of Saint Vincent to a virtual setting with the release of a trio of wines.  These were the 2018 Cabernet Franc, 2019 Syrah, and 2020 Blaufrankish -- pulled young from the barrel and available for purchase for $75.   The wines were delivered with no labels or corks and basically, just the bare fruit. The winery also release a short video (below) 

2018 Cabernet Franc
This was a miserable year rain-wise in the Mid-Atlantic with many wineries completely dumping their red grape harvest. That didn't stop Old Westminster as Drew Baker explains, "Looking ahead, we are mostly concerned about the reds -- ripening is going to be tricky… As a result, we're switching up our program to focus more on carbonic/juicy style reds this season. These styles are much better suited to fruit with lower phenolic ripeness, lower sugar content and higher natural acidity. We've even got a new 1,500 gal foeder to break in with whole-cluster CF next week. " And that was the beginnings of this wine and, yes, it is juicy, with bright red cherries, but there's also backbone with noticeable tannins. I wouldn't say they salvaged these grapes, I'd say Old Westminster made a remarkable wine in its own right.

2019 Syrah
The grapes for this wine were grown in Rising Sun, Maryland - located northeast of Baltimore near the Pennsylvania border.  The juice was fermented with whole cluster fermentation and native yeast with the formal proving more tannins than the whole berry fermentation of the Cabernet Franc. The Syrah starts with big voluptuous dark fruit, then black pepper and the beginnings of structure and tannins - but is not well integrated. Feels like two distinct wines but additional oak aging will enhance the structure and integrate the tannins with the fruit.

2020 Blaufrankish

These grapes were grown in Washington County Maryland - near Hagerstown and fermented using small bins and whole cluster. The wine was aged just three months in barrel before bottling, shows great fruit expression, and is very representative of the grape. Extremely fruit forward right now and appropriate body and spice. Possesses more than enough tannins and acids to grow and fortify in Hungarian or American oak. The whole cluster fermentation was a good choice. 

Cheers to Old Westminster, Maryland Wine, and the Festival of Saint Vincent.


Monday, July 15, 2019

Natural Wine at the Old Westminster Winery's Summer Solstice Festival

"Natural Wine is farmed organically (biodynamically, using permaculture or the like) and made (or rather transformed) without adding or removing anything in the cellar. No additives or processing aids are used, and ‘intervention’ in the naturally occurring fermentation process is kept to a minimum. As such neither fining nor (tight) filtration are used. The result is a living wine – wholesome and full of naturally occurring microbiology." -- Raw Wine

On June 22nd, Maryland's Old Westminster Winery hosted the inaugural Summer Solstice Festival featuring natural wines from across the globe. The event was held at the winery's Burnt Hill Farm which is their second vineyard but the first farmed using biodynamic practices. Once mature, the harvested grapes will be processed with little or no intervention in the cellar and Old Westminster will produce Maryland's first natural wines.

But what is Natural Wine? When asked, representatives at the festival provided multiple definitions starting with either organically or biodynamically farmed grapes and finishing with various levels of winemaking intervention. Some stressed the importance of using zero sulfites which are used as a preservative and stabilizer. Others believe that a minimal amount of sulfites are allowable right before bottling but not during other stages of the winemaking process. Most representatives stressed the use of native yeast although some were inoculated with yeast cultures. Many of the natural wines were cloudy as a result of non-filtering whereas others were clean which suggest the use of a clarifying agent such as egg whites or isinglass (made from fish bladders).

As a result of these various practices, the wines were quite diverse ranging from cloudy and funky to clean and very traditional. I tended to prefer the latter as I felt the funkier styles provided excuses for traditional winemaking faults such as volatile acidity and reduction. These "faults" are counter-intuitive in the same wine since reduced winemaking is a method to prevent volatile acidity by reducing the amount of oxygen available for bacteria to create acetic acid.  However, in some cases, the reduced notes did not blow off after swirling and remained in tandem with the vinegar notes. In other wines where the effects of reduction did blow off, the funkiness sometimes overwhelmed the fruit flavors. But in the natural wine world, when the fruit and funk mingle more gracefully, the wines are greeted with acclaim.

During a pre-festival #WineStudio Twitter tasting that ran through June, we sampled the contrasting styles with the Old Westminster 2017 Home Vineyard Cabernet Franc and their 2018 Heirloom. Whereas both were bottled unfined and unfiltered the Cab Franc provided a more traditional profile full of fruit flavors with balanced tannins and acidity. I wish more East Coast wineries could replicate this excellent wine. On the other hand, the 77% Chardonnay, 12% Albarino, and 11% Muscat blend in the Heirloom was funkier in style perhaps from fermenting with native yeast and took quite a few sips to comprehend. I am well acclimated with this style in cider and beer - but not so much with wine.

So quite naturally at the Summer Solstice, I drifted towards the more traditional wines starting with Oregon's Brooks Winery. The Estate Vineyard for this Williamette Valley winery was certified by Demeter for Biodynamic farming principles in 2012. And in the cellar, they utilize low intervention winemaking practices but release very clean and traditional wines as evident by the Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Pinot Noir. These wines are delicious and represent the grape profiles perfectly. Brooks also provides an original profile indicator on their website which displays color-coded bar charts representing aroma and flavor.

Nearby, the Georgian Wine House was pouring similarly delicious wines from this ancient country located in the Caucasus region of Eurasia. The Georgian winemaking tradition is known for using qvevri vessels to ferment and age the wine. If a white wine is aged with prolonged skin contact then the resulting wine becomes light orange in color with more depth in flavor. Naotari Winery specializes in this technique and the family operation (Koba Kvatchrelishvili and his two sons, Rezo and Alex) releases the Khikhvi Blend 2016 natural wine. This blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi, and Khikhvi is fermented with native yeast, is unfiltered, and undergoes zero intervention or added sulfite. Yet it is full of stone fruit aromas and flavors with no traces of volatile acidy or reduction.

Similarly, Chona’s Marani Winery is another family venture producing natural wines like the Rkatsiteli 2017 and Mtsvane-Rkatsiteli Blend 2017. Pure, clean, and delicious wines. Finally, sisters Baia and Gvanca showed two excellent wines in the Baia's Wine and Gvanca's Wine with Baia focusing on white wine and Gvanca red. The Gvanca's Wine Otskhanuri Sapere 2017 exudes sour cherries and not in a funky way. The Baia's Wine Tsolikouri 2018 is also fermented with wild yeast, unfiltered, and uses very low levels of sulfites that provides clean citrus and apple flavors with refreshing acidity.

Traveling towards the Mediterranean there was another brilliant natural wine from Turkey imported by Siema Wines. Mustafa Çamlica founded Chamlija Winery in "2000 in the small Thracian town of Büyükkarıştıran, and planted his vineyards throughout the decomposed granite soils of the Strandja Massif, near where Turkey meets Bulgaria". At the festival, Siema poured this winery's Papaskarasi Rosé - a rare indigenous Turkish grape variety. This delicate wine provides a soft texture to its strawberry profile finishing with refreshing clean acids. And the distinct label was drawn by Çamlica's daughter Irem - a renowned artist in Turkey.


Siema poured another clean and textured wine, this time from the Friuli region of Italy. Borgo San Daniele is operated by the brother and sister team of Mauro and Alessandra who do not use chemical products in their vineyard and minimalistic techniques during vinification. Their Mauri Vignaioli Friulano (formerly called Tocai Friulano) is complex with a soft fruit and almond profile and finishing with elegance.

So cheers to these clean and fresh natural wines and Old Westminster Winery for hosting a fantastic event. 

Monday, June 17, 2019

Old Westminster Winery, Burnt Hill Farm, & The Summer Solstice Festival

“We’re going to challenge current beliefs with unique and transparent wines – wines that offer balance, nuance, and character. We’re going to farm thoughtfully, using biodiverse cover crops, biodynamic principles and incorporating animals. And then, in the winery, we’re going to craft wines with a light hand, ferment with indigenous yeast, and bottle it all without fining or filtration. These wines will be made without makeup – a pure reflection of the time and place where they’re grown and the people who guided the process." Drew Baker.

Photo Courtesy of
Old Westminster Winery
This is the guiding principle behind the next phase of Maryland's Old Westminster Winery as this accomplished and innovative winery attempts to challenge contemporary winemaking through The Burnt Hill Project. The Baker family has been very successful in their previous endeavors, first by immediately impressing consumers and critics after an initial launch of Old Westminster Winery, being the first to can and successfully market Maryland wine, and creating a custom crush facility for other aspiring winemakers.  So there's little reason to conclude this next phase will not be as successful.

Burnt Hill Farm is located in northwestern Montgomery County and its name comes from the late 1800s, when the owners "despaired of growing crops in the nutrient-poor soils and made money by burning trees and brush to make charcoal, potash, and lye". The farm has the ideal gradient and clay-limestone soils congruent for Gamay and Pinot Noir, grapes normally not planted in the Free State. But why stop there. They are also planting "90 experimental varieties bred by Cliff Ambers, an iconoclastic viticulturist who pollinates native grape vines with pollen from European vinifera varieties” Dave McIntyre Washington Post.

The Bakers will continue the viticulture philosophy from their Home Vineyard in Westminster, all work done by hand, sustainable farming, minimalist winemaking, and fermenting with native yeast. They have also incorporated bio-dynamic vineyard practices at Burnt Hill Farm  -- starting two years before planting their first vines - in order to create a living organism. Biodynamic farms generate their own fertility through composting, integrating animals, and cover cropping. This effort at Burnt Hill includes rotating cover crops like wheat and daikon radish, planting manure filled bull horns that will eventually fertilize the vineyard, and introducing sheep next year.
"We choose to think of our farm as a living, breathing organism. Like a human body with a system of organs, our farm is a complex system of interacting substances and processes...> biodynamics." Drew Baker
Consumers can discover Old Westminster's minimalist approach to winemaking as well as taste a preview of what should come from Burnt Hill at their Summer Solstice Festival on June 22, 2019. Under a circus tent at Burnt Hill Farm, low-intervention winemakers from across the globe will pour 100+ unique wines. The lineup includes Broc Cellars, Hiyu Wine Farm, Zafa Wines, Floral Terranes, Margins Wine, Methode Sauvage, Iapetus Wine, Wild Arc Farm, Inconnu Wine, Johan Vineyards, The Scholium Project, Fable Farm, Purity Wine, En Cavale, Fausse Piste, Old Westminster, Lightwell Survey, Liten Buffel, Maitre de Chai, Old World Winery, Les Lunes, Ruth Lewandowski, Brooks, Art+Science, Native Selections, Zev Rovine, Williams Corner, Plant Wines, MFW, Domestique, Wines of Georgia, Revel Wine, and more...

And to learn more about the festival and Old Westminster Winery tune to #Winestudio on Twitter Tuesdays in June at 9PM E.T. Cheers and hope to see you at the Summer Solstice.

Friday, February 23, 2018

USBevX 2018: #Wine Writers, What Are They Looking For?

Photo Courtesy of  Kathy Lang Wiedermann -Virginia Made
A huge thanks to Jenn Nelson of Wine Antics for live blogging the Wine Writers, What Are They Looking For? session at the 2018 US Wine & Beverage Conference. This two-day conference in Washington D.C. is targeted towards wineries to provide education in the fields of vineyard management, wine-making, and marketing.  The Wine Writers session was one of a few that were very relevant to content providers and fortunately I was able to watch the proceedings live via Jenn's video.  This session was moderated by Eric Guerra, Chief Marketing & Sales Officer Terravant Wine Company, and featured Carlo DeVito Owner Hudson-Chatham Winery  plus three wine writers: Lenn Thompson, Frank Morgan, and Paul Vigna. A stellar cast.  I would strongly encourage interested readers to watch the entire video, but here are my comments on what was discussed and what was omitted. Cheers.

Educate Tasting Room Staff
This dictum should be obvious but even the organizers of USBevX realized it's lacking since they created a session on this very topic. Perhaps, turnover is a contributing factor, but I continue to witness this irritating display of ignorance.  On one extreme, I remember Dezel Quillen's (MyVineSpot) story how he mispronounced Virginia's signature grape Vee-og-ney for a substantial period because that's how a staff member pronounced it during his introduction to the grape. On the lesser extreme I've engaged staff who are unfamiliar with where a vinifera grape originated, a blend composition, or even what grapes are planted in the estate vineyard.  Simply unacceptable. And staff should be honest if they do not know the answer to a question. Do not guess. One tip that Lenn Thompson suggested was not only sending writers technical sheets, but post that information on your website. I would expand that and suggest having technical sheets available at the tasting room. At the very least, it would assist educating the staff and more importantly it can be distributed to wine geeks who ask more probing questions.

Tell a Story
How can wineries differentiate their brand from the hundreds or even thousands of competing options? That question not only was raised during this session, but has been overarching dilemma of the craft wine explosion.  In addition to producing the best wine possible, a common answer is to create compelling stories behind your establishment. Frank Morgan mentioned Old Westminster Winery as an example with their family story and social media engagement.  However, the story doesn't have to revolve solely around the family.  The region's history can be stressed as is the case at The Winery at Bull Run who display Civil War artifacts in their tasting room.  Another option is highlighting a particular grape variety. Hudson-Chatham's story revolves around Baco Noir -- although their Chelois is just as intriguing.  If you produce an Albarino, focus on the grape's Galicia home as well as how your wine differs from those from Riax Baixas - perhaps through annual comparative tastings. Even normally pedestrian grapes such as Pinot Gris can be a focal point. Recently I tasted a rather noteworthy Pinot Gris from Boordy Vineyards. When I mentioned this to Dr. Joe Fiola, his eyes gleamed as he enthusiastically discussed the specific vineyard block that produced that wine. Boordy should share that knowledge - perhaps present samples of dirt in the tasting room and explain how the soil and sunlight affect the wine. Provide us a reason to visit.

Expand Beyond Experienced Content Providers
A valid question was raised during the seminar on how to differentiate between the bloggers, particularly when new content providers seem to be appearing overnight. The panelists gave two equally valid responses. First, look for content providers who have organically written about your area as this demonstrates a degree of excitement towards your location. Paul Vigna's Penn Live is a nice example of an outlet that reports on winery tours in underrepresented locations. At the very least any state or regional winery board worth their salt should have a list of content providers that have written about that area.  The second response was to seek content providers who have large audiences. Now in some instances, these audiences may simply be the result of longevity, but at least the blogger\writer has sustained a passion for covering the wine industry.

However, I would caution about relying solely on these more experienced bloggers. You could easily overlook many talented and engaging content providers with small but growing readership. Being in the longevity camp, it is refreshing to encounter younger and perhaps more enthusiastic content providers who are not just seeking free samples. And in the DMV region there is no shortage of groups that you can contact to locate these individuals. A few Facebook examples are the Young Wino's of DC, Black Wine Lovers, and I have to include the more senior Virginia Wine Mafia.

Finally, the discussion was exclusively focused on print.  Yet there's a large array of media that are covering  craft beverage industries. Wine Antics is one example of live video blogging. There are also podcasters, social media providers, and others outside my realm. Try something different such as Winemaker's Drinking Beer. There are numerous outlets beyond experienced print bloggers.

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Maryland's Old Westminster Winery Opens New Tasting Room

Since it's inception, visitors to Old Westminster Winery were constricted to the winery's crush pad and a small area in the winery. In order to alleviate this situation the winery built a new spacious tasting facility with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating as well as unique oak tables and counter tops. And this weekend the winery is ready to celebrate the grand opening of this building.


On Thursday the winery held a Vine Cutting ceremony in order to give thanks to state and federal officials who facilitated its construction and to provide friends in the industry a sneak peak. Through several speeches, two facts became readily apparent. First, Carroll County Maryland understands that farm wineries and breweries are important facets to the county's economic development, housing values, and land preservation. Second, Old Westminster is gaining a wide reputation as one of the top producers in Maryland. Al Spoler, Cellar Notes on 88.1FM WYPR, is obviously a huge fan but so is Andrew Stover, who has been pimping their Albarino for the past year. I've had my share of samples and readily agree with this assessment, from Chardonnay at the 2013 DrinkLocalWine.com Conference to Thursday's samples of Greentone and Revelry, First Edition. The Revelry is an easy drinking blend of five Bordeaux varieties whereas the Greentone is a blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Viognier - both grown in the foothills of Maryland’s South Mountain. Dr. Joe Fiola mentioned that it's extremely rare in Maryland to produce a blend with Sauvignon Blanc (as it can overwhelm the other grapes), but Old Westminster exceeded so much this wine was awarded the Best White Blend at the 2015 Governor's Cup. Needless to say a visit to the winery is highly recommended. And as usual, theCompass Winery Brewery Distiller Locator app can guide your there. Cheers.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

#DLW13 - What's the Best Wine Grape for Maryland?

Last weekend I was fortunate to be included in a two day celebration of local wine, particularly, Maryland wine, at the 2013 Drink Local Wine Conference. During these two days of tours, tasting, and seminars; a common question was posed: "what is the best wine grape for Maryland?". That's a tough question considering the diversity of wine we sampled; from traditional Bordeaux varieties, to Chambourcin and Vidal, Chardonnay and Chardonel, Pinot Grigio and Noir, Albarino and Syrah, Sangiovese and Zinfandel, Gruner and Gewurztraminer and even Pinotage and Barbera. And that's not even listing blends.



During one seminar, Al Spoler, co-host of Cellar Notes, stated that Maryland should follow the road of Oregon (Pinot Noir), New Zealand (Sauvignon Blanc), and Virginia (Viognier) and hang its hat on Cabernet Franc.  And I tasted several tasty Cab Francs over the course of the weekend, in particular from Boordy Vineyards, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, and Old Westminster Winery. Heck, Thanksgiving Farm even poured a white Cabernet Franc - made in the saignee style with all pigment removed. I would say Cabernet Franc has a future in the state.

However, during the next panel, Ed Boyce, from Black Ankle Vineyards, disagreed stressing that Maryland's best grape is a red blend, particularly when the state experiences unusual weather. Just look at 2011 when an "unscheduled irrigation event" occurred and most wineries experienced over 25 consecutive days of rain from late August through September. In these situations, Boyce believes the sub-par grapes can be blended and "declassified" into a lesser brand so that quantity becomes the problem, not quality. On the other hand, when conditions are more Californian, then the grapes can be blended into a reserve classification. And we tasted quite a few fabulous blends, starting with the standard portfolio from Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard (EVOE, Circe, Comus) and Black Ankle Vineyards (Crumbling Rock & Rolling Hills) to the Landmark Series from Boordy Vineyards (harvested from the Piedmont's South Mountain), the Thanksgiving Farm Meritage, and Big Cork Vineyards future wines. There's no doubt that red wine blends are solid offerings in the Free State. 

But there are other red varietal wines worth noting. Boordy and Black Ankle bother offer excellent Syrah and then there's the old champion Chambourcin. The Fiore Winery Reserve Chambourcin was the first Maryland wine I ever tasted - at least a dozen years ago - and today is still a favorite. I think I was one of a couple people who voted for it in the Twitter taste-off. Let's not forget the Knob Hall Winery Chambourcin and on two occasions our group was poured the Port of Leonardtown Winery Chambourcin and just as tasty as the Fiore.

Then there's the suggestions from Dr. Joe Fiola (UofM) who, for the past decade, has been assisting Maryland vineyards determine which grapes best suit their site. (Here's a brief video of his presentation.) For the the warmer southern region, where the diurnal fluctuation may reach a lackluster 15 degrees in the summer, he suggests southern Spanish and Italian varieties that are characterized by higher acids and tannins. One of these was the Slack Winery Barbera - a juicy, yet silky wine - as well as the Woodhall Wine Cellars Pinotage, harvested from the Schmidt Vineyard in the Eastern Shore, and more pinot than "tage" - very smooth. 

What about the  white wines?  Black Ankle wowed us with their Gruner Veltliner and Albarino. I look forward to trips to the beach to grab some Bordeleau Pinot Grigio or I'll just travel closer to home for some from SMV. Chardonnay is a stable in all Maryland regions as we tasted several very nice brands; and where that grape can't grow, Slack Winery proved that Chardonnel is a decent alternative. Port of Leonardtown also poured a refreshingly acidic dry Vidal and another favorites was the Gewurztraminer from Elk Run Vineyards.

So which grape may be the best wine grape for Maryland?  I don't know; maybe its this diversity which will strengthen and expand the industry. Or maybe its none of these grapes at all. We tasted several experimental wines being produced from Dr. Joe's research vineyards which included Colombard, Marsanne, Verdejo, Barbera, and most interesting a slew of hybrids from the former Soviet Union. These cold hardy grapes were actually planted in his southern Maryland vineyard and showed some promising results. Maybe the future of Maryland wine is SK 7753 or  SK 771099. Here's Dr. Joe leading us through a tasting of these wines.

Drink Local Wine Session IV: Tasting Maryland's Future

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Plenty of #mdwine to sample at #dlw13

I'm looking forward to heading to Baltimore for the 2013 DrinkLocalWine Conference Friday and spent some time last night reviewing past posts on Maryland Wine, particularly The Wine Grapes of Maryland (a little outdated) as well as our trips to Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard and Old Westminster.  And looking at this map reminds me that Maryland is home to several excellent breweries in addition to Blackwater Distilling. Hope to be able to taste these as well over the weekend.





Participating wineries and wines I hope they are pouring:

Monday, November 19, 2012

Maryland Wine & Charm City Land 5th Annual DrinkLocalWine Conference

This week DrinkLocalWine officially announced the site for the 5th annual DrinkLocalWine Conference and the winner is a historic wine region as well as a rising player in the local wine industry: Maryland. I say historic, because Philip and Jocelyn Wagner, founder of Boordy Vineyards, were instrumental in the resuscitation of the East Coast wine industry by propagating French-American hybrids in their Maryland nursery.  To learn more about this story we recommend Maryland Wine: A Full-Bodied History written by Regina McCarthy, former marketing coordinator for the Maryland Wineries Association.  I mention rising wine industry because the Free State is currently home to over 50 wineries and cideries and about a dozen more in the pipeline. The state is also diverse in its topography from vineyards located in the sandy southern Maryland and the Eastern Shore to the rolling hills of the Catoctin & Linganore AVAs near Frederick, and the mountainous Cumberland Valley AVA to the extreme West. The conference takes place April 12-14th 2013 in Baltimore and count us in - get ready for some crab cakes and wine.  Here is the official press release. And below that are three videos we filmed at Maryland wineries. Cheers.
Nov. 19, 2012 - DrinkLocalWine will hold its fifth annual conference April 12-14, 2013 in Baltimore, focusing on Maryland wine. The state's industry is one of the fastest growing in the country, nearly doubling in size over the past two years with more than 60 wineries.

The state's four growing regions produce a variety of wines, including the classic European varietals, but also some that are distinctly New World in style. The Maryland Winery Association is the conference's primary sponsor.

“We're growing a world of wine styles and varieties throughout Maryland, and we're excited to share them through DrinkLocalWine,” says Kevin Atticks, executive director of the Maryland Wine Association.

DLW 2013 will include a Maryland Twitter Taste-off featuring two dozen of the state’s best wineries, plus three seminars featuring some of the top names in Maryland and regional wine.

Maryland's modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of the state's wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains.

DLW 2013 follows the success of the first four conferences - the inaugural conference in Dallas featuring Texas wine in 2009, in Loudoun County featuring Virginia wine in 2010, in St. Louis featuring Missouri wine in 2011, and in Denver featuring Colorado wine in 2012. DLW also holds an annual Regional Wine Week in the fall, in which more than 40 wine bloggers, writers and columnists from the U.S. and Canada write about their favorite regional wines, ranging from Ontario to New York to Florida to Texas to Colorado.

DrinkLocalWine.com's goal is to spotlight wine made in the 47 states and Canada that aren't California, Washington, and Oregon. It's the brainchild of Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre and wine blogger Jeff Siegel, The Wine Curmudgeon.

For information, call (469) 554-9463 or email drinklocalwine@gmail.com.
Winemaker Series: Old Westminster Winery

Dangermuffin at Sugarloaf Mountain Winery

Uncle Dave Huber @ Black Ankle Vineyards

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

More Opportunities to Drink Local Wine: Maryland Wine Week

Opportunities to Drink Local Wine continue next month as the Maryland Wineries Association announces Maryland Wine Week, running June 8-17. During this week several Maryland restaurants and wine shops will "celebrate local wine and produce by hosting a range of events themed around Maryland wine, including wine maker dinners, tastings, wine flights, and more!"

Never tried a Maryland wine? Don't know much about the industry? Then check out a few videos featuring Maryland wineries (Black Ankle Vineyards, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, and Old Westminster Winery. Or better yet, check out the 20th Wine in the Woods festival this weekend (5/19-20) in Columbia and sample wines from over thirty Maryland wineries. That will prepare you for the Annapolis Arts & Crafts Festival held June 9th and 10th. Here are the restaurants and wine shops participating in Maryland Wine Week. Hope to see you at one of their events or follow along on Twitter and Facebook.

Wine Shops
Annebeth’s Specialty Shop • Annapolis
College Square Liquors Carroll County
Frederick Basket Company Frederick
Friendship Wine & Liquor • Abingdon
Mill’s Fine Wine & Spirits • Annapolis
Nick’s of Calvert Calvert County
Wine LoftBaltimore County

Restaurants
Alexandra’s Restaurant • Ellicott City
Beans in the Belfry • Brunswick
Clementine Baltimore
Drovers Grill & Wine Co. • Mount Airy
Patrick’s Retaurant & Pub • Cockeysville
The County Cork Wine Pub Eldersburg
The Gourmet Goat & GG’s Restaurant & Martini Bar Hagerstown
RANAZUL Tapas Wine Bistro Howard County

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Old Westminster Winery: Bringing Youthful Vigor to the Old Line State

Maryland Wine is receiving a youthful boost with the entry of Old Westminster Winery into the industry. The winery is owned and operated by the Baker Family, with siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli managing the vineyard, wine making, and marketing respectively. And evidently the housing crash of 2008 lead to the creation of the winery. Wanting to sell the winery, and seeing reduced property values, the family investigated alternative uses for the land and decided, why not a vineyard and winery. They then planted seven acres of grapes, some unique to Maryland: Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Albariño, and Sauvignon Blanc. The first harvest from these vines occurred during the Autumn of 2011, so they will need to wait two more years until they can utilize estate fruit. In the meantime, they are sourcing fruit from other Maryland vineyards, Chatham Vineyards in the eastern shore of Virginia, and from California.

As their name suggests, the winery is located just outside of Westminster, Maryland and expects wine sales to be driven through their tasting room. They are located only twenty miles from the Baltimore Beltway. They also plan to follow the wine style modeled by neighboring Black Ankle Vineyards and eschew the sweet wine market and concentrate on premium dry wines. Currently the winery is not open to the public (expect a Spring 2013 opening) but are allowing 100 Century Club members to receive lifetime access to the facility in order to taste the wines as they progress from barrel to bottle.

Lisa Baker invited me to visit the winery and sample the wines from barrel. While planning the trip I realized their story may be interesting to viewers of VirginiaWineTV, so we also filmed an episode which will be available in early April. How interesting? Well, how often to 20-something year old siblings start a winery. Drew, the elder, is 26 and could not join us since he is on sabbatical in New Zealand, learning from the southern harvest. Ashli, the youngest, will graduation college this year take over all marketing functionality. And Lisa, 23, is the full time wine maker. Her Chemistry degree is an obvious advantage in her new vocation and there are plenty of consultants available to instruct through each phase of wine making. However, my initial skepticism was how has she developed a palette for noticing the nuances in different wines. She acknowledges this potential handicap and described to me how she and Drew have tasted hundreds of wines trying to identify missing structure or imperfections. They will continue this crash course in order to improve both their palettes. And Lisa is getting plenty of practice in the winery. Last year the Maryland Assembly passed a law legalizing the equivalent of a custom crush. So this year, Old Westminster Winery became such a facility and Lisa assisted consultant John Levenberg in making wine for two other Maryland start-ups, Crow Vineyard and Winery and Vineyards At Dodon.

I arrived at the winery to find their first bottled wine, the 2011 Maryland Rosé, produced from the bleeding of their Maryland sourced Merlot. The also bottled a Rosé from the Chatham grapes, keeping that juice separate so they could enter the Maryland Rosé into state competitions. Since their red wines will remain in barrel for another 12-14 months, the saignée rosés provide the Bakers with quick proof that there infant enterprise is truly a functioning winery.

Before we sampled the wines, Lisa described how each stage in the wine making process is dictated by their core philosophy: producing high quality wines. These include hand sorting the grapes, separate heating and cooling systems built into the fermentation tanks, and close oversight with the winery's consultants (initially John Levenberg, now Carl DiManno).

We started our tasting with the Merlot from Chatham and it was quickly evident that another to creating quality wine was obtaining quality fruit. And this lot contained solid fruit. After only two months in new French oak, the wine retaining a fruit forward character and a little harsh tannins from the stems and skin. Over time these tannins will mellow and change as tannins from the wood are imparted into the wine. Yet this wine is really drinkable now - a solid wine that hopefully will retain its fruit during the next 14 months in barrel.

The next two wines were sourced from California and will be used to supplement the Maryland and Virginia lots. The fruit from both barrels, one Merlot, the other Syrah, were lighter than the Chatham Merlot and will need more time in barrel to generate more body and structure. The wines will also benefit from barrel aging to introduce more tannins. Ironically, these batches will test Lisa's wine making skills.

The final wine was a Maryland Cabernet Franc, where they grapes were sourced from a vineyard in Thurmont Maryland. In general, this wine is coming along nicely. It had as much fruit flavor as the Chatham Merlot, but with less tannins. Evidently the tannins are mellowing quickly because Lisa noticed a change since the last taste a week ago. And paired with a proprietary chocolate, the tannins disappeared completely. Maybe that's how they will market dry wines to a sweet wine market.

I look forward to returning to Old Westminster in six or seven months when they start crushing and fermenting their white wine. And hopefully at that time Drew will be available to navigate us through their second year of harvest. Check out their Century Club video below and I'll be adding the link to the Virginia Wine TV episode soon. Cheers.